Guide · Condition
How to grade used game condition
A repeatable way for retro stores to grade condition (cartridge, disc, box and manual) so pricing and trade-in offers stay consistent no matter who is at the counter.
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The short version
Grade each part of an item separately (the game, the box and the manual), test that it works, then combine those into one overall grade on a scale your whole store shares. The goal is not a perfect science; it is that the same item gets the same grade every time.
Start with completeness
Before condition, settle what is present: is the item loose, complete-in-box or sealed? That single distinction moves value more than any scuff or scratch. If you need the definitions, see loose vs CIB vs sealed.
Grade each part
Cartridge or disc
Label wear, scratches, scuffs and cleanliness. For discs, check for cracks and resurfacing marks. This is the part that has to work.
Box or case
Crushing, tears, fading, sticker residue and whether inserts are present. Cardboard boxes take damage more easily than plastic cases.
Manual and inserts
Present or missing, writing, water damage and completeness. Missing inserts move a copy away from truly complete.
Test that it works
A clean-looking cartridge that does not boot is not a high grade. Testing before grading catches faults (dead save batteries, disc read errors, drift) that change both the grade and the price. Keeping testing as its own workflow stage means an untested item never gets priced by accident.
Retro condition red flags to check
Some issues are unique to older hardware and are easy to miss if you only grade for looks:
- Bootlegs and reproductions. Off-colour or glossy labels, wrong region markings, a Phillips screw in place of a security bit, or a battery on a game that never had one. Verify heavily-faked titles (Pokémon, Earthbound, many GBA games) before grading.
- Dead save battery. Games that save progress can lose the ability to hold a save as the internal battery dies. Note it, as it is a repair cost.
- Disc rot. Check the data side of PS1, Saturn and Dreamcast discs for haze, pinholes or discolouration that cause read errors.
- Yellowing. SNES and other older plastics yellow with age and UV; note it, since it affects grade even though the game still works.
- Corroded contacts. Dirty or corroded cartridge pins cause glitches and boot failures; cleaning is part of getting the item ready.
Use a simple, shared scale
You do not need a ten-point system. A short scale that everyone applies the same way beats a detailed one that each buyer interprets differently.
- Mint / like new: no meaningful wear, works perfectly.
- Good: light wear, fully functional, shelf-ready.
- Fair: visible wear or missing parts, still sells at a lower price.
- For parts / repair: does not work as-is or needs work before sale.
From grade to price
A consistent grade is the input, not the output. Once an item is graded, market value for that condition gives you context, and your store logic sets the final number. See how to price used games for resale and how trade-in values are calculated.
Keep grading in the workflow
When grading is a defined step between intake and pricing, the grade travels with the item instead of living in someone’s memory. That is easier to keep consistent with a game store inventory system that shows each item’s status from intake to ready-to-sell.
Keep grading and pricing connected.
RetroBase makes grading a step in the workflow, so a graded item moves straight into pricing without living in someone’s memory.
Grade once, price with confidence.
RetroBase keeps condition, testing and pricing as connected steps, so a graded item moves straight toward ready-to-sell.
Frequently asked questions
How do you grade a used video game’s condition?
Check each part separately (cartridge or disc, box and manual), then combine them into an overall grade. Test that the game works, look for damage and wear, and record the result so the same item is graded the same way next time.
What condition parts matter most for value?
Whether the item is loose, complete-in-box or sealed matters most, followed by how clean and undamaged each part is and whether the game has been tested and works.
Do I need a formal grading company?
For everyday used stock, no. A consistent in-store scale is enough. Third-party grading is mainly relevant for high-value sealed or collectible copies where a certified grade adds value.
How do I keep grading consistent between staff?
Write down a simple, shared scale and make grading a defined step in your workflow, so a new hire and an experienced buyer record the same item the same way.
Should I grade before or after testing?
Test first where you can. An untested item carries more risk, and testing often reveals faults that change both the grade and the price.
How do you spot a reproduction or bootleg cartridge?
Common tells include an off-colour or glossy label, wrong or missing region markings, a Phillips screw where the original used a security bit, an incorrect PCB or a battery on a game that never had one. When a title is heavily faked (Pokémon, Earthbound, many GBA games), verify before you grade or price it.
Written by
Burak EsenFounder, RetroBaseBuilding RetroBase with retro game store owners: the trade-in, pricing and inventory workflow between the buy and the shelf.More about RetroBase